Installing a new 10 speed Shimano chain and cassette.

Today I am going to explain how to install a new chain and cassette to a bicycle with a Shimano 10 speed drive train, in this case the bicycle is fitted with the Ultegra group.

Installing a new Shimano 10 speed chain and cassette

Thanks for taking a look

Shane of SR Bike Works



  • Always great to hear your thoughts Richard and I agree totally with your choice of lubricants for chains :)
    Had a guy in store yesterday with the smallest rear cog teeth worn to a point so fine you could have sworn the teeth would shear off on his next ride. “I only ride in that gear because it feels good to me” and “I must have done nearly 14,000km on this one” so on went the new rear cluster and new chain. I too have seen chains absolutely flogged out with less mileage than the one you mentioned. Some riders really do give their drive trains a hard time :)

  • Yeah, that’s an almost daily conversation in my shop as of late. Although Tigra riders be ware. I had a rider with a brand new 2011 Defy. It was dirty, and ridden hard, but with only 3k miles the chain was beyond toast, and had taken the cassette with it. I think the chainrings are salvageable.

    Personally, I’ve never like the dry lubes. I use a wax lube on my MTB, and a light/thin wet lube on my road and commuter bikes. Where I lived in Maine there is a lot of sand on the roads from the long winter. The sand just stuck to the dry lube and embedded in the links. A thin wet lube (Pedro’s Road Rage is my all time favorite, replaced by Pedro’s Go!) floated the sand out for the most part, and then kept the sand out. I am not a fan of heavy wet lubes unless you are touring in the rain. It just seems to make a mess. Really, a Dry lube would probably work here in TN just fine, but I am sticking with what works for me at the moment. If I have gone too long, or the chain is really dirty I will put some Dawn in the Park chain cleaner, fill it with water, run it, put clean water and rinse the chain, and then thoroughly wipe it off, and then lube it. This isn’t as harmful as degreaser, but probably not helping a whole lot either. I have been much better about wiping down my chain and using only a bit of lube on the chain, and then wiping it down real good again, as of late. Really, as Shane said, the best way to go.

  • That depends on the type of riding and the mileage done on the chain.
    By replacing the chain earlier there is no reason you couldn’t get more life from the cassette.
    I get riders at the store who have had the same chain for years and wonder why their gears are so rough. When I explain the chain is excessively worn which has in turn worn the cassette and chain rings which will all need replacing, they are horrified at the cost. Regularly replacing the chain can prolong cassette life.
    I had one gentleman with 10,000km on a Campagnolo chain and his cassette was fine with a new chain. It always depends on the rider, conditions and especially the maintenance schedule of the drive train.
    One thing I see a lot of is riders degreasing their chain. This is something I NEVER do with any of my bikes. Degreaser gets in to the middle rollers of the chain and “degreases” the goodness that was in there. The degreaser stays in there for some time and will generally cause undue and premature chain wear.
    My chains are always wiped down with a rag/cloth then I apply a dry lubricant(if that makes sense)to the chain a good while before the bike will be ridden next. This allows the chain lubricant to get in to the rollers and to set on the chain.
    If we are having a spell of wet weather I will apply a wet lubricant and wipe off the excess. This keeps the chain nice and clean and stops oil getting flung up on you rear wheel and frame.

  • rockclimber

    You replace the cassette every 2 chains am I correct?